Planning an addition, a new outbuilding, or converting a garage? You may be wondering about the cost to tie into an existing septic tank. Good news: in many homes you can connect a new line to the current tank and drain field instead of building a whole new system. Costs vary based on distance, soil, permits, and whether you need a pump. This guide breaks down typical price ranges, what drives them up or down, and the tools that make the job smoother. You’ll also find proven, high-rated products (all $300+) that contractors actually use for these projects.
Quick Picks
- Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate 1/2 HP Sewage Pump – Best Overall: rock-solid pump for tie-ins that need lift to the tank.
- Polylok 24″ Complete Septic Riser Kit (Risers + Lid + Adapter) – Best Budget: brings access to grade so inspections and future tie-ins are faster.
- Liberty Pumps Pro370 Pre-Assembled Sewage Ejector Package – Best Premium: plug-and-play basin + pump kit for new baths or backyard studios tying into the tank.
Buyer’s Guide: What Affects the Cost
- Distance & trenching: Longer runs mean more pipe, deeper digs, and more labor. Expect more if you need to cross driveways or roots.
- Gravity vs. pump: A simple gravity tie-in is cheaper. If the new line sits lower than the tank, you’ll need a sewage ejector pump and basin.
- Permits & inspections: Counties usually require a permit and a final check. Fees are part of the total.
- Soil & obstacles: Rock, clay, ledge, or high water tables add time and equipment costs.
- Tank access: If your tank is buried deep with no riser, crews spend extra time digging. Adding a riser now saves money later.
- Repairs & upgrades: Worn inlet tees, cracked lids, or a tired pump can add parts and labor on the day of the tie-in.
Typical Price Ranges (Homeowner-Friendly Estimates)
- Simple gravity tie-in (short run, easy dig): $1,000–$2,500
- Standard tie-in (30–80 ft, normal soil): $2,000–$4,500
- With sewage ejector pump/basin: $3,500–$8,000+ (equipment + electrical + labor)
- Long/complex runs (100+ ft, rock, driveways): $4,000–$10,000+
These ballparks usually include trenching, pipe, fittings, bedding, the tank connection, backfill, and typical permit fees. Electrical work for a pump, concrete coring, or yard restoration can add more.
Cost Breakdown (Where the Money Goes)
- Permits & inspections: $100–$600
- Trenching & backfill: $10–$25 per linear foot (more in rock)
- SDR-35 or PVC pipe/fittings: $4–$12 per linear foot (material only)
- Tank connection (inlet tee/riser seal/core): $200–$900
- Sewage ejector pump & basin (if needed): $800–$2,500+ (equipment)
- Electrical for pump (dedicated circuit/alarm): $300–$1,200+
- Site restoration (seed, asphalt, pavers): varies widely
Detailed Product Reviews (All $300+ and available on Amazon)
Zoeller M267 Waste-Mate 1/2 HP Sewage Pump
Who it’s for: Homeowners or pros adding a bathroom or outbuilding that sits lower than the tank.
- Key benefits: Cast-iron build, 2″ solids handling, dependable long life.
- Pros: Rugged; common parts; trusted brand by installers.
- Cons: Requires basin, check valve, and proper venting.
Final verdict: The go-to workhorse when a tie-in needs lift. Pair with a proper basin and alarm.
Liberty Pumps Pro370 Pre-Assembled Sewage Ejector Package
Who it’s for: New bathrooms, garage conversions, or backyard studios tying into the tank with minimal on-site assembly.
- Key benefits: Basin, pump, switch, and fittings pre-mounted; clean install; fast.
- Pros: Saves labor; neat footprint; reliable 1/2 HP pump.
- Cons: Higher upfront price than piecing parts together.
Final verdict: Premium kit that cuts install time and headaches for pump-required tie-ins.
Polylok 24″ Complete Septic Riser Kit (Risers + Lid + Adapter)
Who it’s for: Anyone tying into a deep or hard-to-reach tank.
- Key benefits: Brings the access to grade; seals tight; safer and faster service.
- Pros: Cuts future labor; sturdy lid; clean look in the yard.
- Cons: Needs proper seal and hardware to match your tank ring.
Final verdict: Smart upgrade that pays for itself the next time you pump or inspect.
RIDGID K-45AF Drain Cleaning Machine
Who it’s for: Pros and serious DIYers clearing tie-in routes and old lines before connection.
- Key benefits: Auto-feed, powerful motor, clears 3/4″–2-1/2″ drains.
- Pros: Durable; serviceable; trusted jobsite tool.
- Cons: Pricey for occasional users—renting is an option.
Final verdict: A clean line saves callbacks. This machine keeps new tie-ins flowing.
Anysun 100-FT Sewer Inspection Camera (DVR/Sonde)
Who it’s for: Tracing route, depth, and finding the tank inlet before you dig.
- Key benefits: 7″ monitor, meter counter, 100-ft push rod for long runs.
- Pros: Saves exploratory digging; documents findings for permits.
- Cons: Learning curve to navigate bends.
Final verdict: Visibility equals accuracy. Great planning tool for cost-controlled installs.
VEVOR 165-FT Sewer Camera with 9″ DVR
Who it’s for: Bigger properties or longer routes where 100 ft isn’t enough.
- Key benefits: Longer reach, bright LEDs, recordable video for inspectors and clients.
- Pros: Plenty of range; sturdy frame; value for length.
- Cons: Bulkier to haul around than shorter rigs.
Final verdict: Extra reach avoids guesswork on long tie-ins and saves return trips.
Sample “All-In” Scenarios
- Short gravity tie-in (40 ft, easy soil): Permit $250 + trench/pipe $1,000 + tank tap $350 = ~$1,600
- Moderate tie-in (70 ft, clay, add riser): Permit $300 + trench/pipe $1,600 + riser kit $350 + tank tap $450 = ~$2,700
- Pump-required tie-in (new bath below grade): Permit $300 + Pro370 package $1,100 + electrical $600 + trench/pipe $1,400 + tank tap $450 = ~$3,850
Comparison Table
| Name | Key Features | Specs / Capacity | Price Link |
|---|---|---|---|
| Zoeller M267 Sewage Pump | Cast iron, 2″ solids, long life | 1/2 HP • 115V | See on Amazon |
| Liberty Pro370 Package | Pre-assembled basin + pump | 1/2 HP • 2″ discharge | See on Amazon |
| Polylok 24″ Riser Kit | Risers, lid, adapter ring | 24″ diameter • heavy-duty lid | See on Amazon |
| RIDGID K-45AF | Auto-feed drain cleaner | Cleans 3/4″–2-1/2″ lines | See on Amazon |
| Anysun 100-FT Camera | 7″ monitor, DVR, sonde | 100-ft push rod • IP68 cam | See on Amazon |
| VEVOR 165-FT Camera | 9″ DVR, long reach | 165-ft push rod • LED array | See on Amazon |
FAQ
How do I know if I need a pump?
If the new bathroom or building drain is lower than the tank inlet, gravity won’t work. A sewage ejector pump and basin lift waste up to the tank.
Can I core into the tank myself to add a new inlet?
It’s not recommended. Tanks are confined spaces and can be dangerous. Use a licensed installer for any tank work.
Will my current drain field handle more flow?
Often yes for small additions. Your health department or designer may ask for a quick capacity review before approving the tie-in.
Do I need a riser?
It isn’t always required, but adding one makes inspections, pumping, and future projects faster and cheaper.
What’s the cheapest way to keep costs down?
Shorten the run if possible, avoid crossing driveways, mark utilities ahead of time, and use existing slopes so you don’t need a pump.
Conclusion & Call-to-Action
Tying into an existing septic tank can be straightforward and budget-friendly when the route is short and gravity is on your side. Expect $1,000–$4,500 for most gravity connections and more if you need a pump or have tough digging. Plan your route, confirm permits, and make access easy with a riser. If your tie-in requires lift, choose a reliable package like the Liberty Pro370 or a proven pump such as the Zoeller M267. Want to make planning simpler? Gear up with a sewer inspection camera to map the path before you dig.
Ready to get pricing and parts? Check today’s prices for our picks:
Zoeller M267,
Liberty Pro370 Package,
and the Polylok 24″ Riser Kit.
A little planning now can save you thousands during the install and for years afterward.